We all chase that picture-perfect travel moment: the croissant with a view of the Eiffel Tower, or the effortless stroll through Rome’s ancient streets to the Colosseum. But what of the city’s humdrum underbelly? The moments that don’t make the glossy brochures?
The truth is, few tourists ever get to see the everyday life of a destination. They’re on a quest for hotspots and highlights, and that’s valid. But there’s a richer story to be found in the second, third, and fourth visit: when the novelty fades and the true character of a place emerges.
Having traveled to the South Wales more than twenty times, I’ve had the immense privilege of getting to know it intimately. Through my family connections and time living in the UK, I’ve navigated its breathtaking, rugged coastlines and stumbled into its unforgettable pubs, but I’ve also found its lesser-known experiences well worth a look.
This itinerary is for the traveler who wants to see it all. I’ll offer tips on the iconic castles and unforgettable experiences, but I’ll also challenge you to step off the well-worn path and see parts of South Wales as a local does.
How to get to South Wales
Unfortunately, there are no direct flights into the capital city of Cardiff from the U.S. But there are a few from major Canadian cities on the east coast, as well as routed flights through Ireland and England.
Oftentimes I opt to go through Heathrow and rent a car. We need a car in Wales anyway and take our time driving the 3-5 hours to our destination. That allows some time in London too on either end of the trip.
If you’d like to avoid driving, there’s plenty of train and bus options to South Wales as well that are comfortable and run often.
Where to stay in South Wales
While there are a few lovely hotels and other catered accommodations to choose from, when traveling with family, we usually choose a vacation rental property. There’s plenty to choose from via VRBO and Airbnb. It can be nice to stay in a village if you’re looking for walkable distance to pubs and shops. There’s also a robust train system that can take you to and from Cardiff in places like Penarth, or smaller places such as Dinas Powys. This apartment in Cardiff proper has been my favorite so far for a family of four.
Of course there are some upscale options as well, such as Lanelay Hall north of Cardiff, which offers afternoon tea and spa options too for a real British holiday feel. There’s also Holland House downtown with an indoor pool the kids will love, as well as several IHG properties and other well-known chains.
Shopping: Some quick tips on groceries and sundries
Also if you’re new to the UK, here’s a few local supermarkets you can keep an eye out for while adventuring around. Produce and most fresh or prepared food will be slightly more affordable than the US. It’s great if you’re staying in a vacation rental, or want to bring some snacks home as souvenirs!
M&S: My favorite. Nice, clean, wide variety of food. The large ones include clothing, homewares and more.
Sainsbury’s and Tesco: Often labeled the “cheap and cheerful” options, these are also ideal options for a big shop.
Waitrose: The fanciest of the bunch according to my husband’s grandfather. He wears suspenders so he knows best.
Cozy pubs and elevating dining experiences: South Wales has it all
When embracing a slow travel trip, it’s well worth making time to simply sip and observe. To think some of these pubs with low ceilings and roaring fireplaces have offered pints to locals and travelers for hundreds of years.
Blue Anchor
A bit off the beaten path in the Vale of Glamorgan, this is my favorite cozy pub on a wet day. Duck under the thatched roof entrance and have a cold local beer or hard cider paired with some scampi crisps.
Dinas Powys Country Club
While in the Vale, head to Dinas Powys for a nice drink and space for kids (and dogs) to stretch out. If golfing is your style, there’s also a lush course to try for visitors year-round.
The Captain’s Wife
On a sunny (albeit breezy) day, you can grab a table outside overlooking the sea and have a pile of fresh fish and chips in Penarth.
The Galley
A great breakfast and lunch spot on the harbor of Penarth with a sunny atmosphere and friendly staff. Have both a classic English breakfast and a baked treat.
The Pelican Inn & Pub
A classic village pub in Ogmore by the Sea. Show up on a Sunday for a traditional, hearty roast dinner and a comfortable pot to relax afterwards.
Ego restaurant
You can take a break from all the pubbing and have an excellent Mediterranean dinner at Ego. They have strong cocktails, lots of menu items, and a fun ‘make your own pizza’ option for kids.
Local Welsh hangouts and hidden gems
Caerphilly Castle
There are countless castles to choose from when traveling to South Wales, but the royal Caerphilly Castle is a must-see up close. They’ve recently added some flashier elements, such as two massive dragons that help tell the tale of the red Welsh dragon. You can climb to the top of the towers and learn so much about who used to call this place home.
Cosmeston Country Park
More history can be found at Cosmeston Park, but really just having a stroll with the swans is the highlight. If you need a sightseeing break it’s the ideal spot for small children, with a massive playground complete with castles, dragons, and opportunities to meet Welsh kids too.
Barry Island
Now this is a place you have to visit in person, any time of year. On the surface, the streets are chock full of fish and chips shops and arcades that look a little weary. But the beach first offers perfect conditions for lots of sand castle making and wading in the cool waves. You can have an easy introduction to a proper cliffside walk along Barry too for sweeping sea views. There’s a small rock climbing wall for kids, alongside the kitschy carnival rides they love too. Roam away from the rides and have a coffee at Bay5 for a more tranquil experience. Rumor has it the business might change hands soon, but hopefully will remain a welcoming coffee shop.
But don’t forget to go back to the arcade: kids have to experience a “2p” machine, where they use pennies to win tickets and small prizes. We spent hours and only a few dollars for all the fun.
Swansea
A harborside spot about an hour west of Cardiff is the second largest city in Wales. The beaches are long and wonderfully walkable most anytime of year, especially along the Gower Peninsula. One of the best ways to take in the views of Swansea is atop the Meridian Tower. There’s a restaurant with panoramic views called Altitude28, where you can tuck into a full meal or simply have a floral cocktail at the bar as the sun goes down.
Caerleon
There’s something magic about being in a place that dates back countless centuries. To think others survived with so few modernities and managed to solve huge problems without technology or really, any frame of reference. You can walk right where Romans did at the amphitheater and sites of the bathhouse. There’s an interactive scavenger hunt the little ones loved, and a museum for everyone that dives deep into the history of how these ancient people lived.
Cardiff’s hub of culture and cuisine
Part of South Wales, the capital city of Cardiff has a thousand exciting things happening at any given time. In all honestly we spend less time in the city and more out in nature when I visit, but there’s been a few highlights for a night out, culture, and hearty food. Of course, visit the Cardiff Castle, shop at the quaint covered arcades, and visit some of the stately museums. Then it’s time for entertainment and drinks!
Don’t miss our personal review of the Vegetarian Food Studio: A Taste of Hindu Heaven in Cardiff, Wales
New Theatre
I saw my first pantomime (panto) at the New Theatre in Cardiff. It’s a ridiculous and traditional show usually headlined by a local celebrity around the holidays. They run all sorts of shows year-round, from Broadway and ballet to comedy and kids.
The Botanist
Find immaculate vibes at The Botanist for a happy hour cocktail covered in flora. It’s the deep green ambiance offers a lively and trendy hotspot to enjoy.
The Ivy
You’ll find the original Ivy in London’s West End, but Cardiff’s version is just as elegant and delicious. When we can sneak away from the kids we head here first and let the bartenders fix us something special.
Wahaca
Yes, Cardiff has chain restaurants like any other major city. But if you want a feel of London, you can visit one of these trendy spots right here. I first enjoyed Wahaca in a shopping-container-style spot on South Bank, so it was great to grab a drink and fresh tacos in Cardiff too.
Roath Botanic Gardens
When the weather cooperates, this is a pretty spot in the north of the city. Have a soft service ice cream and a paddle boat ride around the pond: the kids will especially love it. If you dig history, here’s an extensive story about its past.
I hope you have an unforgettable time in South Wales! Do let me know in the comments if I’ve missed anything. Always feel free to send me an e-mail, I’d love to help when I can plan and inspire your trip.
Thanks for the guide!
Thanks for checking it out!
Thanks for the locals’ view and hidden gems. I’d like to visit Wales.
It’s a lovely country!
Wow so amazing