Vail, Breckenridge & Aspen: A Family Road Trip (with No Snow!)

While my home region of New England is arguably the prettiest in the summertime, we were still itching to get out of town for a little summer adventure. With lots of direct flights on Southwest to Denver (plus our companion pass in action!), we made a quick decision to spend a week on a mini road trip to some of Colorado’s best ski towns…in the shoulder seasons!

Each place brings something very special to the table. They all have their own way of presenting a summer haven to visitors, and we fell in love with each destination for its own strengths and highlights. Here’s my quick thoughts before we dive in:

• Aspen: Iconic, gorgeous, and idyllic.
• Vail: Felt the most like Europe, walkable and famously classic.
• Breckenridge: The “hippy” of the group, bigger downtown, sporty, still chic and gorgeous.

The Route at a Glance

• Fly direct to Denver, hit the road: Vail, Colorado
• Next stop: Breckenridge
• Side quests: Frisco and Dillon Reservoir, stop in Glenwood Springs, CO, where the rivers join
• Bonus, well worth the longer drive: Aspen and Snowmass

Before You Go

Most people visit the mountains of Colorado for skiing and winter sports, but you’re really missing out on the beauty of summertime and shoulder seasons. Some of these elite ski towns are aspirational places we’d love to ski as a family someday, so it was a treat to have a summer preview of how they operate. The sun is strong at higher elevation, so SPF base layers and sunscreen are a daily routine (especially for the little ones).

Roads are super easy to follow and most have beautiful views. There are endless bike trails in each town and the route between, so it’s well worth renting some wheels or even bringing your own if you plan to mountain bike or trail ride regularly. (If you’re weighing an RV against a regular SUV for the drive, I broke down the cost difference between the two here.)

Do know the weather can vary greatly. For the late summer, when we had a peek before leaving, it said temperatures would be in the high 60F. But they were closer to 80-90F when we arrived! Also, check the FAQ section at the end for some tips on combatting altitude sickness and long drives with kids.

Vail

About two hours west of Denver airport is the closest destination I’ve seen that embodies the European summer style in the U.S. Vail surprised me in its charm and effortless aesthetics: lots of walking areas flanked by cute shops and restaurants, with common areas for people watching and plenty of al fresco dining too. I’ve skied in Italy and France, and can see why Vail is popular for its similar village-like layout for ease of ski-in-ski-out and apres choices.

Stay at Antlers Vail

There are condos and hotels surrounding Vail, but if you’re visiting in the summer especially, you’ll want to be right in the traditional village areas. Antlers is ideal for families who crave a walkable, easy, breezy getaway that offers close access to amenities and lots of space to relax. Condos are in classic ski-style layouts with sunny bedrooms and lounge areas for a little apres-ski (or apres-pool!). It’s dog friendly and kid friendly, and space to have dinners with balcony grills and full kitchens.

For the kids: playgrounds and pizza

There are two main village-like areas of Vail, with Lionshead Village accessible by Antler’s. However, there’s a simple shuttle that can bring you to the main Vail Village for more shopping, dining, and activities.

In Lionshead, we loved grabbing coffee from the lobby in the morning and spending some time at Sunbird Park Playground. Some people call it the ‘onions,’ it’s an aesthetically lovely, pretty spot for climbing, sliding and starting the day. Down some elegant stairs from the playground is Blue Moose Pizza: so good, we ate there twice! There’s lots of New York-style pies to choose from and a monthly special that’s worth a try. It’s ideal for kids with space outside to wander around after ordering. Across the pedestrian street is Rimini Gelato and Chocolate for a cone or a strong espresso. The price is a bit steep but the flavors are delicious.

The main Vail Village isn’t too far away and offers more options for a relaxing day in a summer ski town. We loved grabbing coffee and having the kid climb all over the pirate ship playground near the mountain base. We checked out a bunch of shops for ski gear sales to get ready for the upcoming season, then had a treat at Sundae’s by the shuttle stop to head back to Antler’s.

For everyone: al fresco dining, soft adventure, and nature

For this visit we didn’t have the chance to ride the summer gondola, but it’s one of the most popular activities in town. At the top, there’s a warm weather adventure park with all the fun summer activities in one place: summer tubing, zip lines, rock climbing walls and more. We opted to save this for Breckenridge, but it’s a perfect day out in Vail as well.

Access to Gore Creek is right outside the door of Antler’s. Our kids loved splashing in the creek and watching people go flyfishing. If you’re up for stretching your legs a little further, the Booth Falls trailhead is a short drive away: it’s about four miles round trip with a steep start that levels out, so plan on it being a real hike rather than a stroll. For something lower effort with a big payoff, this Vail Pass to Frisco bike tour sends you mostly downhill on a paved path with a shuttle back, about as good as it gets for biking with kids along.

For an easy dinner, the Tavern on the Square is close to Antlers in Lionshead and is a gem for families. My spouse and I clinked our wine glasses while our daughters practiced cartwheels with other vacationing kiddos on the grassy bit right in front of the mountain.

Breckenridge

The cozy, colorful town of Breckenridge reminded me of Maine ski towns we frequented growing up. While I love Maine, Breckenridge’s mountains are much more dramatic and impressive! In the summer, this place is still super lively and fun, with lots of visitors and locals outside enjoying the sunshine.

The Lodge at Breckenridge

There are places to stay close to skiing and downtown, but for a summer trip, I opted for something special. At 10,200 feet the Lodge at Breckenridge is the 6th highest hotel in the world. The height alone offers sweeping mountain views and a feeling of staying up in the clouds, but you’re still only a few minutes from downtown Breckenridge (and they have a shuttle to take you there if you want to not battle for parking).

Our clean and airy room was spacious for four, and just steps from lots of common space for s’mores, stargazing, games and more. There are two hot tubs onsite, a fantastic restaurant, and access to all the best summer activities nearby. There’s all sorts of little add-ons available as well, from the kids’ s’mores package to renting a Nintendo Switch for the room (for rainy days and days off from skiing!).

But truly, the views of the surrounding mountains is what made this stay stand out for my whole family. I loved spending time on the patio balcony overlooking the peaks as the sun set, roasting marshmallows and sharing stories.

This was my first experience at an Adventures Unbound property, and I can’t wait to stay at more of these amazing places across the country. Adventures Unbound is a collection of outdoor-focused hotels and lodges across the U.S. (the Lodge at Breckenridge falls under their Summit Collection), so if this stay wins you over, it’s worth browsing their other properties for your next trip.

Bonus Tip: Before you check into the Lodge at Breckenridge, you should take a little side quest down the Boreas Pass Road. After a bit of dirt road driving you’ll be rewarded with absolutely spectacular views of White River National Forest from above. There’s space to wander about the hike as well.

Downtown Breckenridge: hidden gems, a James Beard bakery, and local history

My husband actually found this spot after hearing about its stellar reputation. I’m an unofficial connoisseur of cinnamon rolls, and the Threefold Bakery, opened by James Beard Award winner Matt Vawter, might be my new favorite place to get one. We had some great cold coffees in recyclable aluminum cups, plus a few baked goods between us to easily fill four bellies.

There are tons of decent American fare eateries up and down the main roads of Breckenridge you can walk into and have a great meal (like Horseshoe Breck, Aurum, and Blue Stag Saloon). But for something slightly different, try a tiki mai tai and some poke bowls at Castaways Cove. It’s funky and kitschy, with great Hawaiian and Polynesian inspired dishes for everyone (including chicken teriyaki and rice for the kids).

Summer adventures outside: troll hunts, ropes courses and catching bandit loot

I cannot believe we went the wrong way to look for the Breckenridge troll, also known as Isak Heartstone. If you start in the right spot (to the right of the indoor skating rink) it won’t take you much time at all to walk the short path to Isak in the forest.

However, if you do get ‘lost’ like us on the other side, you can start at the fun Highline Railroad park and playground first. In the back there’s a trail that leads up the side of the hill, and there you will find a giant wooden marble run among the trees. We had a blast with other kids finding the small wood balls to bounce along handmade tree tracks. Go past the marble run and back down the hill to the troll trailhead for a roundabout way of experiencing it all.

(PS, we love finding these incredible troll sculptures by Thomas Dambo. We have a bunch in Maine and Rhode Island nearby our Massachusetts home. If you’d like to explore your own troll adventures, you can use the official troll map to find more across the globe. There’s more than 170 to discover!)

Fortunately, the adventure park in Breckenridge was a straight shot for us to visit and definitely a highlight of our Breckenridge leg of the trip. Epic Discovery is free to visit on the BreckConnect Gondola, with a few restaurants and shops to poke around upon arrival. We purchased the Adventure Pass for both kids to try a little bit of everything (bounce house, ropes course, mini golf, and more), and the adults could observe without tickets.

My youngest just turned three, so she made it into most of the activities, and bravely conquered a mini ropes course and trampoline bungee ride. We went back down the complimentary gondola after that, but my husband and oldest daughter continued up to the summit to see the views. They tried the larger rock climbing wall up there and watched lots of mountain bikers zoom downhill.

Country Boy Mine

If we hadn’t stayed at the lodge we might have missed this spot altogether! The Country Boy Mine is about ten minutes from downtown. Of course you can take a traditional tour into the mines and see what it was like to hunt ‘for gold in them there hills.’ Or, you could take your littles and do a way better activity: hunt for the bandit loot onsite.

We opted for the treasure hunt and were lucky enough to have a private hour or so of puzzles on the trails surrounding the mine. They were fun and doable for our family, leading toward a goal of digging up some ‘loot’ of shiny gems and candy for the kids. They got such a kick out of using compasses, metal detectors and big shovels to work together on the challenge. It was an escape room but outside in the sun!

Nearby Silverthorne, Frisco, and Dillon Reservoir

If you have an extra hour between Breckenridge and the highway back to Denver, Frisco and Dillon Reservoir make a good stop. Frisco’s mile-long Main Street sits inside old mining-era buildings, easy to wander with a coffee in hand, and Frisco Bay Marina rents boats if you want time on the water. The reservoir allows wading but not full swimming, so bring water shoes if the kids want to get in. Silverthorne is just a few minutes further, with an outlet mall if you need a shopping break or forgot something back home.

Aspen and Snowmass

We didn’t spend as much time in Aspen as Vail and Breckenridge, but I still managed to find a few gems to definitely incorporate into the trip. This was my husband’s idea to go there, because he’s always wanted to visit Maroon Bells. And actually, we opted to stay in Snowmass nearby to be closer to the mountain base.

See Maroon Bells up close

Maroon Bells is accessible by shuttle and takes little to no walking, making it accessible for most visitors. It’s a twin peak view (topping 14,000+ feet) that is a showstopper from any angle, especially by the small lake at the base.

There are experts often on hand to lead free nature walks, so we took advantage of the extra engagement to keep our kids entertained and interested. Deer were drinking from the water, birds glided in and out of view, and the whole area looked like a scene from a Disney movie wrapped up in Aspen trees.

Shuttle tickets can be bought in advance, or you can try to reserve one of the coveted parking spots if you plan to go earlier or later to visit. Otherwise there’s a big parking garage onsite to catch the shuttle.

Snowmass: home base

Back in Snowmass, the area is more planned out specifically for winter sports than Aspen. Although the summer was in full force, we still enjoyed hanging out by the lifts at the mountain base in Snowmass, and staying at Crestwood Condominiums made everything feel close enough to fully enjoy for a day. We had a quick bite and some tasty tacos at Venga Venga before turning in for the night after a long travel day.

Downtown Aspen

After our adventure at Maroon Bells and a restful sleep in Snowmass, we wandered over to Aspen for some morning adventures and exploring. Everyone grabbed a treat and a drink at the popular Paradise Bakery so we could walk around downtown. The kids had fun on the sleek playground in the town center, surrounded by a big green field full of happy dogs. Within a stone’s throw were more enticing shops and restaurants too.

And a short drive away was a perfect family lunch spot called Hickory House. I was surprised to find a laid back, casual BBQ spot here, but the dishes were delicious and the service exceptional.

FAQ

Is Aspen worth the extra drive?

If we stayed more than one night, it definitely would have been worth the drive to enjoy the town and go to Maroon Bells. I’m still glad we added Aspen to our Colorado summer road trip, but I would have added a night in Denver to acclimate to altitude first and a second night in Aspen to break up the driving with little ones.

Is the Vail-Breckenridge-Aspen route family friendly?

Breaking up a Colorado trip this way makes it very doable for families. The drive from Denver to Vail is about two hours, then it’s 50 minutes to Breckenridge from there, and another two hours back to Denver. You could add Aspen to either end of the trip (four hours from Denver straight through).

PS these were the most popular snack trays and simple mess-free toys we took along with us.

Did altitude affect our road trip in Colorado?

A massive altitude change, especially if you’re coming from the coast, can be very noticeable. I’ve been to the mountains countless times from my coastal hometown, but this trip hit different. We were often at 9,000 feet above sea level or more, and I experienced a lot of less than pleasant symptoms. Fortunately our accommodations had humidifiers, fans, and plenty of water to help alleviate some of the issues. Some other things that helped:

• I needed to be in shade, stood in the shade when I could and had a hat/sunglasses at all times
• Water had to be ready at all times and cool. My Owala bottle did the trick, and there was plenty of refill stations in most places we visited
• I even gave one of these oxygen cans a try! It did help for a short time but I was back to sucking wind fairly fast

Vail, Breckenridge, and Aspen each have their own personality, and a week gave us just enough time to get a real feel for all three without rushing through any of them. If a Colorado ski-town summer sounds like your kind of trip, I hope this helps you build your own version of it. And if road trips are already on your radar, we’ve also mapped out routes through Montana and Boston to Maine, worth a look for whatever’s next on the list.